Spotkanie w ugandyjskim lesie Bwindi - praca konkursowa

 Spotkanie w ugandyjskim lesie Bwindi

 Ewa Bąchor 

 

01

 

Na początek obowiązkowe szkolenie. Szkolenie z savoir vivre, sposobu poruszania się i współpracy między nami. Czterdziestominutowy instruktaż tego co możemy, czego nie możemy lub co może się nam przydarzyć. Jest też czas na sprawdzenie naszego stanu zdrowia! Nie, to nie jest szkoła dobrych manier, ani kurs przygotowawczy do pracy w dyplomacji. To obowiązkowe szkolenie dla każdego z uczestników chcących stanąć oko w oko z gorylami. Gorylami wysokogórskimi. Jesteśmy w dżungli, wilgotnym lesie deszczowym. Deszczowy las jest bowiem pełen owadów, płazów, gadów, innych „żyjątek” i roślin, stanowiących ogromne zagrożenie dla człowieka, który nie ma odpowiednio osłoniętego ciała. Dowiadujemy się też, że w deszczowym lesie żyją duże zwierzęta, np. słonie leśne. Dostajemy jasne, proste, wręcz żołnierskie instrukcje jak należy się zachować. A dokładnie mówiąc…. jak zachowywać się nie należy. A mianowicie nie należy się zachowywać się głośno ani też wykonywać żadnych gwałtownych ruchów. Nie należy się zbliżać do goryli zbyt blisko, tylko na tyle, na ile pozwolą nam na to traperzy i same goryle. Nie należy dotykać goryli, choć zakaz ten nie obowiązuje samych goryli. Mają prawo one mianowicie całkowite prawo nas głaskać, poklepywać itp. I wówczas, absolutnie nie możemy reagować zbyt szybkimi ruchami, ani gwałtowną ucieczką. W zasadzie goryli żadne zakazy nie dotyczą. Jesteśmy też pouczani, że jeśli komuś zechce się np. kichnąć w obecności goryli, trzeba obowiązkowo odwrócić głowę. Zakazano nam też używania lamp błyskowych przy robieniu zdjęć. Dowiadujemy się również, iż potężne goryle (samce mogą osiągać nawet do 200 kg wagi!) nie są wobec ludzi agresywne. No i są wegetarianami więc ludzie nie interesują ich jako posiłek:) Uff, cóż za ulga. No czuję się zupełnie bezpieczna….Przed wyruszeniem pozostaje jeszcze sprawdzenie naszego stanu zdrowia. Jest to raczej subiektywna ocena rangera, będącego naszym przewodnikiem, który patrzy na nas i okiem mędrca pozwala nam na uczestnictwo w wędrówce. Nawet katar jest podstawą do odmowy uczestnictwa. Katar dla goryli, z wizytą do których się wybieramy, może być śmiertelny….

Wyruszamy. Początkowo nie jest ciężko. Nawet pomyślałam, że tak dużo mówiono mi o tym trudzie i błocie, jak to jest ciężko, a tu proszę całkiem przyjemna wędrówka. Co prawda jest ciepło i wilgotno, ale idziemy przez zacienione obszary. Z minuty na minutę szlak staje się coraz trudniejszy. Szlak, to dużo powiedziane. Posuwamy się krok po kroku za naszym przewodnikiem, który maczetą wyznacza ścieżkę.

2


Jesteśmy wszyscy przygotowani i odpowiednio ubrani do tak trudnej drogi. Niemniej jednak opowieści o trudnym trekkingu nie są przesadzone. Po 40 minutach jesteśmy kompletnie przemoczeni, ubłoceni i spoceni. Przez następne 2 godziny warunki bynajmniej nie zmieniają się na lepsze. Czuć za to atmosferę oczekiwania, podekscytowania - że jeszcze chwila, jeszcze trochę, jeszcze kilka metrów i zobaczymy goryle. W takim „mało wyjściowym” stanie nagle zdaję sobie sprawę z tego co widzę. SĄ!! Mimo zmęczenia, zaczynamy niemal biegiem pokonywać ostatni odcinek dzielący nas od wskazanego przez naszego przewodnika miejsca. Widzimy je! Naprawdę są! Cała rodzina!

3

 

W odnalezieniu rodziny pomagali tropiciele. Pracownicy parku narodowego Bwini, którzy szli przed nami aby odnaleźć ślady rodzin goryli i wskazać rangersom, gdzie mieli iść. Goryle zostawiają bowiem wyraźne znaki swojej obecności w danym miejscu: to odchody i ślady. Oraz „gniazda” na drzewach - choć te zwierzęta prowadzą naziemny tryb życia, to śpią na drzewach, w zbudowanych przez siebie legowiskach. Abyśmy mogli ich podziwiać wspięliśmy się na wysokość 2500 m.n.p.m. Pozwolono nam podchodzić do goryli nawet na odległość metra. Bez strachu, bo główna agresja, jaką możemy u tych zwierząt zobaczyć nie dotyczy ludzi, tylko jest podyktowana wewnętrznymi w stadzie walkami między samcami: o terytorium czy samice. Jednak i to nie są walki na śmierć i życie, kończą się zazwyczaj niewielkimi ranami. Często wystarczającym „atakiem” w walce o hierarchię jest porykiwanie, pohukiwanie czy znane z filmów uderzanie się goryli w pierś. Niemniej jednak przegrane samce zostają wykluczone ze stada i odsunięte na margines rodziny. To dla wykluczonych osobników jest wielkim dramatem. O tym też nam opowiedziano. W każdym razie ludzie - jeśli tylko zachowują się w obecności goryli spokojnie – nie mają się czego bać. Nie zmieniło, to jednak poczucia przepełnionego szacunkiem wobec tych olbrzymów, które towarzyszyło mi przez cały czas trwania spotkania.


4

Cała rodzinka goryli na wyciągnięcie ręki.

5

Serce mocno bije, do oczu napływają łzy wzruszenia i poruszenia. Mega metafizyczne chwile. Patrzę, patrzę i napatrzeć się nie mogę! Ta wyczekiwana rodzina goryli to raczej harem: piękny samiec, kilka samic, stadko dzieci i „dziadek” - wyraźnie stary „pan goryl”.


6


Dopiero po dłuższej chwili dostrzegam jeszcze jednego osobnika. Jest on bowiem w pewnej odległości od stada. Dowiadujemy się, że to odsunięty przez rodzinę samiec, który przegrał walkę o przywództwo i samicę. Jest wyraźnie smutny, przygnębiony... To przykry widok. Jednak takie są prawa natury tego gatunku. Jedyne, co możemy zrobić to przyjąć do wiadomości, że tak w świecie goryli jest. W duszy liczę na to, że odrzucenie samca przez stado nie będzie trwać wiecznie. I że „smutas” powróci na łono rodziny.

7

A obraz tej szczęśliwej, gorylej rodzinki, jest niesamowity! Dorosłe osobniki kręcą się po leśnym „domu”, przeżuwają zerwane z drzew gałązki i z troską doglądają rozbrykanych maluchów.


8


Dzieciaki są przesłodkie! Szaleją na polanie, zaczepiają innych członków stada i siebie nawzajem. Nagle... podbiegają także do nas! Klepią nas po udach, jakby chciały wybadać czy mamy ochotę na wspólną zabawę. Pewnie, że mamy! Ale mamy też w pamięci wytyczne ze szkolenia, których nie wolno nam ignorować. Musimy więc postępować tak, aby goryle w żadnym wypadku nie mogły oswoić się z człowiekiem. Pozostaje nam jedynie obserwowanie tego cudu, jakim są dziko żyjące goryle. Patrzymy więc jak maluchy wspinają się na drzewa albo łażą po grzbiecie mamy. Wkładają palce do oczu dziadkowi, który ze stoickim spokojem tylko wzdycha. Zupełnie jak w rodzinie ludzi, podczas leniwego niedzielnego popołudnia... Podczas wyprawy mieliśmy możliwość przebywania z gorylami tylko przez godzinę. Ale niesamowitą godzinę! Jedyną taką w życiu. Goryle pozwoliły nam bowiem oglądać siebie bez skrępowania, odganiania nas, nie ukrywając żadnych tajemnic ze swojego życia. Zachowywały się swobodnie, akceptując naszą obecność. To było niezwykłe, metafizyczne wręcz przeżycie! Wzruszający widok małych, brykających gorylątek napawał nadzieją, że może nie będzie tak źle i plan ochrony goryli wysokogórskich przyniesie efekty?


9


Godzina mija szybko, zbyt szybko chciałoby się powiedzieć. Czas wracać. Byłam przekonana, że dojście do lokum goryli było wyzwaniem. Nic bardziej mylnego. Zejście, może nie jest tak bardzo wymagające kondycyjnie, ale jest z pewnością dużo bardziej niebezpieczne. Jest mordercze. Znów przedzieramy się przez dżunglę, schodząc po stromych zboczach, które są już tak zabłocone, że grzęźniemy po pas. I jest niewiarygodnie ślisko. W zasadzie, gdyby nie przeszkadzające drzewa, można było się pokusić o wyścigi w ślizgu na pupie w dół na czas. Niektórzy z naszej grupy spróbowali tego rozwiązania, przyspieszając zejście. …….Zejście jest bardzo ciężkie, ale adrenalina i przeżycia jakie mieliśmy nie pozwalają na zmęczenie i marudzenie. Po powrocie do obozu czekała na nas jeszcze jedna niespodzianka. Zasłużony odpoczynek oraz pamiątkowe dyplomy.

 

10


Po wizycie wielokrotnie wracałam do tamtego trekkingu. Za każdym razem zdumiewa mnie jak metafizycznym przeżyciem było spotkanie z gorylami. Rozumiem, podziwiam i doceniam pracę Dian Fossey, i założonemu przez nią Gorilla Fund International, dzięki efektom ich pracy czemu mogłam oglądać goryle w naturalnym środowisku. Spotkanie, które było spełnieniem moich marzeń i którego pewnie długo nie zapomnę.

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Administratorem Twoich danych osobowych jest Fundacja Klubu Podróżników Śródziemie Aleja Podróżników KRS: 0000556344 na podstawie art. 6 ust. 1 lit. b RODO. Skontaktować się z nami możesz mailowo alejapodroznikow@gmail.com

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